Lakefront Tour 63rd to 56th Streets

Lakefront Walking Tour

63rd Street to 56th Street

Walk South past the Museum of Science and Industry

63rd parking lot looking north

The great court of honor in the past.

Friend Williams, "In the evening we spent much time in admiring the great electrical display. There is no doubt but that it was done on a scale never before conceived. The dispay consist in illuniating the Court of Honor, and the Grand Baisn with long rows of incandescent lights. These were in reality about 18 inches apart, but from the ground they, of course, didn't seem more than half that space. These line the cornices of all the Buildings bordering the Court.this is to include the beautiful lighted Peristyle. ...The Administartion Building was especially illuminated and especially beautiful. The large dome was brilliantly illuminated by rows of lights lining its ridges and at the balconies on each of its four sides were large gas jets. This could be seen a long ways off and formed a fitting crown for the Great Show. The Electrical Fountains played between eight and nine. There are two of them. The beautiful MacMonnies Fountain with its ever continuous sprays of water is situation between the two. The Elctric Fountains throw jets of water and spray of various colors and combinations of colors high up in the air. By varying the manner in which the water was thrown up, sheaves of wheat were imintated in a very natural manner. (3)

At 63rd Street, there was a rail hub with all the East Coast trains leading to the Transportation Building.

63rd street underpass

Moveable sidewalk jutting into the lake--Friend Williams " This is a constantly moving platform with seats on it extending far out into the lake on a pier. This was a beautify ride this summer evening and the grounds lights by the innumerable lights, indeed, appears\ed as a 'Magic City."

63rd Street Beach House

63rd Street beachhouse underwent an $8 million restoration, restored 2 open air courtyards, fixed the roof and in December 2004 was given landmark status. A city landmark is protected from demolition and "insensitive changes" to the exterior. It was completed in 1919 for $173,385 and echoed the designs of Daniel Burnham for the south side parks buildings. It looks rather Prairie style to me with its wide eaves.

To the south of the 63rd Street Beach House is Jackson Harbor. The white building is the life saving station built in 1906, which replaced the one that was near 57th Street for th fair. The station houses a restaurant occasionally. The facilities are limited but eating there on the veranda, overlooking the sailboats and the lake on a great summer evening is a real treat.

La Rabida--built for the expo as a replica of the Convent of La Rabida, where Columbus was supposed to have waited for Queen Isabella to decide about the voyage. It housed Columbus documents and artifacts during the fair. The Spanish governemtn donated to the city for a children's fresh air sanitarium. expanded building in 1931. The roof shows the Spanish flavor still with the red tiles.

Jackson Harbor was once the anchorage for Columbus three caravels. The Pinta sank in 1918, the Nina burned in 1919, and the Santa Maria was just left to fall apart and was removed some time in the early 1950s. (2) The redbrick building is the harbor clubhouse.

Heading north from the 63rd Street Beach is a section where the granite pavers survive that once covered the whole beachfront from 55th to 63rd. Gentlemen and ladies could stroll in their street clothes and enjoy the cool lake breezes.

They've tried to restore the granite paver beach, but one thing that's startlingly clear, however, is that the level of the lake is far far lower. The granite pavers don't even remotely reach the water.

The new phase of the lake shore is the concrete that walls off access to the water in steep concrete steps down to the shore. An Army Corps of Engineers project designed to protect the shore and clean up the approach it's neither aesthetic nor sturdy. Within a year of the concrete going in, I took these photos of the rebar rusting out of the concrete and the joints splitting.

One of the weirdest items on the lakefront during the Fair was the replica of the warship Illinois--made of bricks and concrete. I guess no one felt seasick that way. Cadets lived and studied and drilled on it. Here on the north end of the fair, the U.S.S. Illinois was anchored--a reprodution of the battleship--but not the real one--since it rested on a pile of bricks. Friend Williams said, "This we found a very popular place; there being a great stream of persons going off and on all the while. Around on deck, there were guns of various sizes and kinds shiled by massive armor plates. Down below, many natical instruments, a model of the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean, implements for raising the large heavy shells to the deck, and very nice cabins fitted up for the superior officers, were some of the interesting sights I remember. There were also cozy cots and hammocks for the sick."(3)

Santa Maria by the Casino and the Manufactures Building,

Friend Williams went aboard her--"an exact reproductioin of the original." "It was a quaint craft indeed. Aboard it were ancient arms, an old style ship stove, an old compass, a three-legged kettle labeled "the first casting in America" and many other quaint ship implements." The other two from the armada were not open for the public.

This stretch of the bike path isn't that pleasant. It makes the pleasure of 63rd Street Beach and the Point that much greater. The cars roar by on Lake Shore Drive and the bikes hurtle by sometimes as well.

The drive was originally designed to be an elegant pleasure boulevard. It always had four lanes. The two northbound lanes were named for Leif Eriksen and the two southbound lanes were named for Christopher Columbus. It was designed to provide vistas of the lake and views of playing fields and meadows framed by trees to the west. It opened from Grant Park to Jackson Park in 1930. Of course it promptly killed the resort hotels, which depended on being right on the beach.

The drive now (especially further north) was the redesign of 1952, which was built to the west of the existing drive and ran through the landscaping and existing playing fields as a "triumph of traffic control.". The old road became access roads and parking lots right on the shore, until the current reconstruction, which did away with most of that.The Stevenson Expressway took whole swaths of Burnham Park, as did McCormick Place, so it's hard to spot Burnham's original vision north of Hyde Park/Kenwood.

Great Basin under constructions in June 1892, justting way out into the lake. The Republic/Golden Lady stood at the far end facing inward.

A lot of visitors to the fair went out on the water to watch the fireworks and light show. According to the Century, the fireworks included a set piece of the bombardment of Fort McHenry, complete with rocket's red glare. The fort would blow up and the flag would show in lines of light and the crowds cheered. (Century p. 27). Lights illuminated the whole basin at night.

One of the most remarkable buildings at the Fair was the Manufacturers and Liberal Arts Buildings. The first view is from the other direction, across Wooded Island.

The Century World's Fair Book for Boys and Girls has wonderful photos of the construction. Built on a marsh, the fair buildings sat on giant wooden pilings, the steel frame rose up, and was covered in "staff"--essentially papier mache--that could be quickly molded in ornate designs and spray painted white to form the white city.

U.S. Government Building

At 59th Street on the lake was the Government Building Plaza. This was famous as the camping place for the West Point Cadets. Friend Williams was there--they "made a fine appearance as they marched across the plaza." "Their erect forms, straight backs, and finely fitting clothes made them appear great."(3)

59th Street Harbor--This is the remains of Burnham's Boulevard Drive, spanning the North Haven inlet, near where the original life saving station once stood.

Around here stood the Life Saving Station (check)--During the Fair it had been the U.S. Coast Guard exhibit. It was maintained as a life saving station for the lagoons and lake.

Bridge on the lakeside boulevard on teh north haven inlet near the old life saving station still there today.(2)

Norway

Victoria House

Coming up on 57th Street beach with drive

The Viking ship was anchored nearby. "It wasn't a very large boat, and its means of propulsion was by oars. A great dragon's head formed the beak of the boat."(3)

Victoria House was donated by Queen Victoria. When the boys in the Century book try to go in, they are informed that entry is only on presentation of a card. It had richly carved woodwork, a model of a chair that King Charles sat in while on trial, and elegance and fine furniture. (Century p. 88).

The German pavillion survived for many decades as a cafe and beer hall on the shore. The boys in the Century book were overwhelmed there at the number of German speakers. It included a Passion Play clock with figures going through the motion of the cruxifixion.

57th Street beach access

63rd Street to 56th Street
Walk South past the Museum of Science and Industry
	63rd parking lot looking north The great court of honor in the past. Friend Williams, "In the evening we spent much time in admiring the great electrical display. There is no doubt but that it was done on a scale never before conceived. The dispay consist in illuniating the Court of Honor, and the Grand Baisn with long rows of incandescent lights. These were in reality about 18 inches apart, but from the ground they, of course, didn't seem more than half that space. These line the cornices of all the Buildings bordering the Court.this is to include the beautiful lighted Peristyle. ...The Administartion Building was especially illuminated and especially beautiful. The large dome was brilliantly illuminated by rows of lights lining its ridges and at the balconies on each of its four sides were large gas jets. This could be seen a long ways off and formed a fitting crown for the Great Show. The Electrical Fountains played between eight and nine. There are two of them. The beautiful MacMonnies Fountain with its ever continuous sprays of water is situation between the two. The Elctric Fountains throw jets of water and spray of various colors and combinations of colors high up in the air. By varying the manner in which the water was thrown up, sheaves of wheat were imintated in a very natural manner. (3)
	At 63rd Street, there was a rail hub with all the East Coast trains leading to the Transportation Building.
	63rd street underpass Moveable sidewalk jutting into the lake--Friend Williams " This is a constantly moving platform with seats on it extending far out into the lake on a pier. This was a beautify ride this summer evening and the grounds lights by the innumerable lights, indeed, appears\ed as a 'Magic City."
	63rd Street Beach House 63rd Street beachhouse underwent an $8 million restoration, restored 2 open air courtyards, fixed the roof and in December 2004 was given landmark status. A city landmark is protected from demolition and "insensitive changes" to the exterior. It was completed in 1919 for $173,385 and echoed the designs of Daniel Burnham for the south side parks buildings. It looks rather Prairie style to me with its wide eaves.



	To the south of the 63rd Street Beach House is Jackson Harbor. The white building is the life saving station built in 1906, which replaced the one that was near 57th Street for th fair. The station houses a restaurant occasionally. The facilities are limited but eating there on the veranda, overlooking the sailboats and the lake on a great summer evening is a real treat.
	La Rabida--built for the expo as a replica of the Convent of La Rabida, where Columbus was supposed to have waited for Queen Isabella to decide about the voyage. It housed Columbus documents and artifacts during the fair. The Spanish governemtn donated to the city for a children's fresh air sanitarium. expanded building in 1931. The roof shows the Spanish flavor still with the red tiles.
	Jackson Harbor was once the anchorage for Columbus three caravels. The Pinta sank in 1918, the Nina burned in 1919, and the Santa Maria was just left to fall apart and was removed some time in the early 1950s. (2) The redbrick building is the harbor clubhouse.
	Heading north from the 63rd Street Beach is a section where the granite pavers survive that once covered the whole beachfront from 55th to 63rd. Gentlemen and ladies could stroll in their street clothes and enjoy the cool lake breezes.
	They've tried to restore the granite paver beach, but one thing that's startlingly clear, however, is that the level of the lake is far far lower. The granite pavers don't even remotely reach the water.
	The new phase of the lake shore is the concrete that walls off access to the water in steep concrete steps down to the shore. An Army Corps of Engineers project designed to protect the shore and clean up the approach it's neither aesthetic nor sturdy. Within a year of the concrete going in, I took these photos of the rebar rusting out of the concrete and the joints splitting.
	One of the weirdest items on the lakefront during the Fair was the replica of the warship Illinois--made of bricks and concrete. I guess no one felt seasick that way. Cadets lived and studied and drilled on it. Here on the north end of the fair, the U.S.S. Illinois was anchored--a reprodution of the battleship--but not the real one--since it rested on a pile of bricks. Friend Williams said, "This we found a very popular place; there being a great stream of persons going off and on all the while. Around on deck, there were guns of various sizes and kinds shiled by massive armor plates. Down below, many natical instruments, a model of the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean, implements for raising the large heavy shells to the deck, and very nice cabins fitted up for the superior officers, were some of the interesting sights I remember. There were also cozy cots and hammocks for the sick."(3)
	Santa Maria by the Casino and the Manufactures Building, Friend Williams went aboard her--"an exact reproductioin of the original." "It was a quaint craft indeed. Aboard it were ancient arms, an old style ship stove, an old compass, a three-legged kettle labeled "the first casting in America" and many other quaint ship implements." The other two from the armada were not open for the public.
	This stretch of the bike path isn't that pleasant. It makes the pleasure of 63rd Street Beach and the Point that much greater. The cars roar by on Lake Shore Drive and the bikes hurtle by sometimes as well. The drive was originally designed to be an elegant pleasure boulevard. It always had four lanes. The two northbound lanes were named for Leif Eriksen and the two southbound lanes were named for Christopher Columbus. It was designed to provide vistas of the lake and views of playing fields and meadows framed by trees to the west. It opened from Grant Park to Jackson Park in 1930. Of course it promptly killed the resort hotels, which depended on being right on the beach. The drive now (especially further north) was the redesign of 1952, which was built to the west of the existing drive and ran through the landscaping and existing playing fields as a "triumph of traffic control.". The old road became access roads and parking lots right on the shore, until the current reconstruction, which did away with most of that.The Stevenson Expressway took whole swaths of Burnham Park, as did McCormick Place, so it's hard to spot Burnham's original vision north of Hyde Park/Kenwood.
	Great Basin under constructions in June 1892, justting way out into the lake. The Republic/Golden Lady stood at the far end facing inward. A lot of visitors to the fair went out on the water to watch the fireworks and light show. According to the Century, the fireworks included a set piece of the bombardment of Fort McHenry, complete with rocket's red glare. The fort would blow up and the flag would show in lines of light and the crowds cheered. (Century p. 27). Lights illuminated the whole basin at night.
	One of the most remarkable buildings at the Fair was the Manufacturers and Liberal Arts Buildings. The first view is from the other direction, across Wooded Island. The Century World's Fair Book for Boys and Girls has wonderful photos of the construction. Built on a marsh, the fair buildings sat on giant wooden pilings, the steel frame rose up, and was covered in "staff"--essentially papier mache--that could be quickly molded in ornate designs and spray painted white to form the white city.

	U.S. Government Building At 59th Street on the lake was the Government Building Plaza. This was famous as the camping place for the West Point Cadets. Friend Williams was there--they "made a fine appearance as they marched across the plaza." "Their erect forms, straight backs, and finely fitting clothes made them appear great."(3)

	59th Street Harbor--This is the remains of Burnham's Boulevard Drive, spanning the North Haven inlet, near where the original life saving station once stood. Around here stood the Life Saving Station (check)--During the Fair it had been the U.S. Coast Guard exhibit. It was maintained as a life saving station for the lagoons and lake. Bridge on the lakeside boulevard on teh north haven inlet near the old life saving station still there today.(2)
Norway Victoria House	Coming up on 57th Street beach with drive The Viking ship was anchored nearby. "It wasn't a very large boat, and its means of propulsion was by oars. A great dragon's head formed the beak of the boat."(3) Victoria House was donated by Queen Victoria. When the boys in the Century book try to go in, they are informed that entry is only on presentation of a card. It had richly carved woodwork, a model of a chair that King Charles sat in while on trial, and elegance and fine furniture. (Century p. 88). The German pavillion survived for many decades as a cafe and beer hall on the shore. The boys in the Century book were overwhelmed there at the number of German speakers. It included a Passion Play clock with figures going through the motion of the cruxifixion.

	57th Street beach access

Lakefront Walking Tour

63rd Street to 56th Street

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