Midway Plaisance Walking Tour

59th West to Woodlawn / 59th West to Ellis / Cottage Grove / 60th East to Woodlawn / 60th East to Blackstone

Ellis Avenue to Cottage Grove

then south to 60th Street

 

Medical Center

Albert Merritt Billings Hospital

1927

The Medical Center has become a complex that stretches from 57th Street to 59th Street and from Cottage Grove to Ellis Avenue, covering over 25 acres. It's a mass of improvisation with one wing after another being tacked on and tucked in to the other buildings. It's so confusing inside that patients and visitors are handed maps. The oldest part lines the Midway and was once called the Albert Merritt Billings Hospital. Some of the early wings were added along 59th Street and their now unused entrances face it.

The family of Albert Merritt Billings gave the money in 1916 but the hospital didn't open until 1927. Members of the Billings family gave more than 1$ million to found the medical school and hospital, persuaded by Dr. Frank Billings, who was a professor of medicine at the University. The original five buildings were planned to be separate but closely connected units. The first courtyard, above (the doorway in the middle of the block) was the administrative building, joining the surgical and medical buildings.

There were two early additions to the hospital, whose unused doors face out onto 59th Street. The Elizabeth Spalding McElwee Memorial dates from 1930. It was to be a 50-bed clinic operating as part of the Chicago Home for Destitute and Crippled Children. McElwee/Hicks were orthopedic hospitals and so were decorated with the names of orthopedic specialists and the shields of barbers' guilds.

The Gertrude Dunn Hicks Memorial was also a 50-bed clinic for the Chicago Home for Destitute and Crippled Children. It opened in 1931.

The Bobs Roberts Memorial Hospital for Children opened at the same time as Billings, the main hospital. John Roberts was from Ireland and had come to Chicago to make his fortune in meat packing. In 1917, their five-year-old son Charles, nicknamed Bobs, died. So that other children could be saved, Colonel and Mrs. John Roberts matched the Billings family's million dollar donation. I love the laughing angel over the door and picture the children walking through it with that looking down on them.

The Lying-in Hospital had been founded by Joseph Bolivar DeLee, M.D., in 1896 as a clinic devoted to giving obstetrical care to women in the slums. It was a shoestring clinic supported by patrons, operating where Provident Hospital now stands. By 1927, the clinic had treated over 69,000 mothers and 20,000 gynecological patients, but it needed better facilities. The university was able to offer him this building when Max Epstein, chairman of the General American Tank Car Company, gave the necessary million to finance the clinic. He'd been giving to the medical center since 1917, trying to get it off the ground. The deconarations on the Lying-In Hospital include forceps and other obstetrical instruments of the day. There are shields with the names of physicians who treated women.

During the fair this was the location of the Captive Balloon ride, which was a hot air balloon tethered to the ground. It would take 16 people at a time up to 1492 feet over the fair to get a view of the whole extravaganza and the city beyond. They went up to 1492 feet in honor of Columbus. It lasted until a wind storm swept through and destroyed the balloon.

Next door was the Ostrich farm.

 

Tree

Stepping out to cross the Midway and looking back toward the quads, there is an anomaly in front of the Medical Center. The other trees on the Midway outline the grid of streets and walkways. Here there is one sitting all by itself in the middle of the panel. This native bur oak was the tree that was planted next to Sitting Bull's cabin to give it some shade. Inside the cabin was an exhibit of relics found on the battlefield at Little Big Horn.

At Cottage Grove Avenue, cross the Midway to the south to 60th Street.

 

The Fountain of Time

Lorado Taft

1922

A hooded figure of Time turns his back to the Midway and looks across a pool to a long procession of human beings moving through the stages of life. Around on the back side is another procession of people, including the sculptor and his assistant. A marker on the ground points to them. There are 100 separate figures.

The statue was commissioned in 1914 to commemorate a hundred years of lasting peace between England and the United States--which somehow produced this meditation on how nothing lasts, which can't have been quite what his patrons expected. Taft said his inspiration was a poem by Austin Dobson:

"Time goes, you say?Ah no!/ Alas, time stays, we go. "

It eventually led to his plan for turning the whole Midway into a mile-long meditation on history.

It is said to be the first use of concrete as an artistic medium, which was chosen for the cost. Time has had an effect on the fountain itself, eroding the figures so that they are less distinct until a large refurbishing was done recently. Money is still needed to fix the pool.

Cottage Grove, the busy street between the Midway and the statue, had a car line in the 19th century and quickly became an area of shops, cottages, and boarding houses. The population in the 1900 census listed Irish, German, Swedish, Greek, Chinese, and African American families living along it, who used the car line to commute to their jobs. Early in the 20th century, at Cottage Grove and 61st, there was a large amusement park called Sans Souci, built to recapture the joys of the Old Vienna attraction and other rides at the Fair. Slightly further west into the park was the race course that was once glamorous in the 19th century. Though fairly deserted now, this area was jumping in the early years of the 20th century.

In this space, a new garden is under construction, to open in the summer of 2005--the Dr. Allison Davis Garden. The one-acre garden is being designed by Peter Lindsey Schaudt, a landscape architect. There will be a circular main section that is lower than ground level, an echo of the perennial garden on the east end of the Midway, across Stony Island (which of course is cut off from view by the tracks). The $800,000 project is being done with the University, the Park District, and the Davis family. Davis was a distinguished professor of education and one of the first African Americans granted tenure. He had a doctorate in Anthropology from the U of C in 1942. He had an impact outside the academy--questioning standardized intelligence tests, examining how to value the talents of people from diverse backgrounds, and supporting desegretation of the schools. He advocated public gathering places where people from different backgrounds could mingle. Hopefully the garden can be that place. His family liked this location because he walked across this site to get from his home in Woodlawn to his office on the north campus. (from U of C Chronicle 11/18/04)

If you had turned to look at this location during the fair, this is the view that you would have had. The captive balloon, ostrich farm, and Chinese Village are on the left. The ferris wheel, of course, is looming in the middle. The Wild East show, Dahomey, Lapland, and Old Vienna stretch down the right hand side.

 

 

Midway Gardens

Midway Gardens

Frank Lloyd Wright

1913

It was in this district of entertainment centers that one of Frank Lloyd Wright's more famous lost structures once sat: the Midway Gardens. The beer garden and entertainment center was on the corner of Cottage Grove and the Midway Plaisance at 60th Street. It covered three acres--a square city block--surrounded by low masonry terraces, promenades, loggias, galleries, winter gardens, and a dance floor. It was supposed to be a festival for the eye and ear, with areas for mystery and romance--a place for good music, good food, good beer, and dancing. It was mostly of concrete with scarlet and green flash glass in relief.

The Midway Gardens opened before they were finished to a grand society opening. Pavlova danced there. But it had been under financed so it was quickly sold to the Edelweiss Brewery, which badly altered Wright's conception of it. Soon after, Prohibition ruined the business since the open airy plan couldn't be converted into a speakeasy. After an attempt to convert it into a dance hall and skating rink, it was torn down in 1929 and replaced with a car wash. It's now the home of a gas station and a ground level parking lot--and soon to be a new parking structure for University of Chicago Hospital employees at Drexel and 61st Street that will begin construction in 2005.

Midway Gardens was bulldozed into Lake Michigan as break wall, but the building didn’t go down without a fight. Two wrecking companies went out of business trying to demolish the concrete structure. Though they weren't supposed to, a number of the workmen salvaged some of the Sprites that had been sculpted by Alfonso Ianelli. These large ladies in the picture are at the Arizona Biltmore.

 

Remains of Cottage Grove entertainment district at 6349S Cottage Grove, in the Grand Ballroom, now being redone by the former manager of Piccolo Mondo. Ballroom 60 feet long with an art deco bar and chandeliers, 20 foot tall ceilings, decorative plaster. ornate terra cotta on the outside. Built in 1923. Also on that corner was the Tivoli Theaterh, 3, 400 seats, , and a Trianon Ballroom.

And on the Midway during the fair at this location was the Wild East Show. This seemed to be an expression of the original social Darwinist layout of the Midway. This was not an organized fantasy with lots of ways to make a profit from fairgoers like the concessions at the center of the Midway. This was a camp of bedouins from Syria, complete with camels and horses and armed with scimitars and spears. They were called the Wild East Show because Buffalo Bill was a thorn in the side of the fair organizers, opening a large Wild West Show outside the fair entrance and charging his own separate admission. These bedouins fenced in an encampment, lived in tents with their wives and children, and occasionally had races and games for the spectators. But they didn't have a true money-making plan, and they were often in trouble for nonpayment of bills with the Cook County Sheriff.

One bit of hype was that one of their Arabian horses Aigme had supposedly caught the eye of someone in New York and they'd been offered $12,000 for it.

 

Walk East on 60th Street, back toward the Blanik Knight.

Midway Studios

Midway Studios

Some parts of the current studios line 60th Street, marked by the 1957 Cadillac embedded in 16 tons of concrete. It is a sculpture by Wolf Vostell called "Concrete Traffic" put there in 1970.

The National Historic Landmark Midway Studios are around the corner at 6016 S. Ingleside Avenue. The university gave this shed and land to Lorado Taft to work on his sculpture commissions.

The South Campus plan for 2020 includes a center for creative and performing arts to be built surrounding all sides of Midway Studios.

 

Opposite Ingleside Avenue on the Midway was Lapland Village. They lived for the duration of the fair in huts made with skins and moss, with a fire always burning. They also had a small herd of reindeer. There were 24 inhabitants. One of curiosities that a fairgoer could see was a family that included a man 112 years old, his son age 90, his grandson age 73, great granddaughter age 59, her son age 41, and his son age 29. That didn't end it--The 29 year old son had a daughter of 14, who herself had a daughter of 2. As one guidebook said, "the patriarch is active especially in soliciting fees. He will take a bottle of beer instead of cash." Some of these concessions were more successful than others, but all of these in exile at this end of the Midway made little money, nor were they set up well to make money.

Midway Tour Introduction

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